Lost in the Souk

"Never go into the souk on your own".

Ali, my guide, wagged his finger at me with a stern look on his face.

We stood at the entrance gate of the old walled city souk in Sana'a, Yemen.

"No", he continued, "they close all the gates at sunset, and nobody is allowed in or out until morning. Many times I have had to go in and rescue you foreigners who have got lost in the souk. There's no street names - you will get confused and lost without someone who knows their way around".

We entered through a mighty double wooden gate into the thriving market. We meandered through narrow alleyways with stalls displaying all kinds of domestic merchandise. The smell of wonderful spices filled the air. Locals chewing qat - a mildly narcotic leaf, striding alongside us, displaying their belted jambiya, the curved dagger over their white attire. It was like stepping back into the 15th century.

Ali persisted with his rescue commentary. He was becoming irritating:

"Now, here - this is where tourists get lost, because of confusing alleys, no street names, there's no maps".

He continued to regale me with tales of this tourist and that tourist who had to be rescued by him. Eventually, I'd had enough - it was time to put him in his place.

"I can find my way out from anywhere in this market" I said with quiet confidence.

"No, no, impossible - it's your first time here, you will never find your way out on your own"

He continued: "Ok, I will make a bet with you. I will take you deep into the heart of the souk and if you can find your way out I will buy you anything you choose from the market stalls".

We shook hands. "Ok, it's bet".

"Follow me" said Ali as we ventured deep into the market alleyways, through twists and turns, dead ends and deserted spaces. At some point he stopped. "Now find your way out" he mocked.

"Just follow me" I said, and proceeded to walk ahead of him. I walked with confidence, through the winding alleys and market stalls at a good pace. Eventually I led him to the gate where we had entered and I pointed the way out.

Ali stood there astounded. Speechless at being proven wrong.

"But how did you do that? You have never been here before!"

"That's true". Now it was my turn to smirk.

It was quite simple. When we first entered through the gate, I happened to glance behind me and saw that the sun was going to set directly over the gate. The various gates must have been built on compass points. All I had to do was walk towards the sun, which by now was getting even lower in the sky making it easy to find the gate.

I never told Ali how I did it. Just told him I had special powers.

Now it was Ali's turn to make good on the bet. Anything in the souk I wanted, he promised. Well I took pity on him as a poor tour guide. I looked on the stalls for the cheapest thing I could find. I spotted some rope hanging baskets, so picked a cheap one for the price of a few Riyals.

"Are you sure you want that?" Ali said with a puzzled expression.

"Yes that's fine, that will be useful" I assured him.

He remained silent for a long while, but still looking puzzled on our way back to the hotel. Finally, he could contain himself no longer.

"But why did you pick that? What use could it be to you back in England?"

I dangled the basket in front of him. "Look, it's for putting plants in and hanging them up somewhere".

He burst out laughing.

"What's funny about that?" I said.

Through his laughter he just managed to get the words out:

"No, it's not for plants - it's a camel muzzle!"